Induction cooktops divide the cooking surface into zones that each operate independently, which is good news when one stops responding: it rarely signals a whole-unit failure, and usually points to something localized.
Check the Pan First
Induction zones only activate when they sense a magnetic pan base sitting flat and centered within the marked area. A warped pan, one that’s smaller than the zone’s ring, or cookware made from aluminum or copper without a magnetic layer simply won’t register — and from the cook’s side, that looks identical to a broken zone.
An Overheat Cutoff May Be Doing Its Job
Running a single zone at maximum power for a long stretch, or cooking with the drawer directly underneath the cooktop packed full enough to block airflow to the electronics, can trip a protective shutdown at that zone specifically. Clearing the drawer space and giving it several minutes to cool usually resolves this.
Confirming a Genuine Fault
If the right cookware, a clear ventilation path, and a cooldown period still leave that zone dead, its control electronics have most likely failed and need replacing.
Getting It Fixed
Visit our Fisher & Paykel cooktop repair page to book a diagnostic if a dead zone keeps recurring.